Here's the annoying thing about foundation: When it's expertly applied, it can turn your face into a perfectly even, bright, smooth-looking pearl. But when it’s applied, uh, not so well, it has the potential to highlight fine lines you didn’t know existed, make your skin look flaky and oily, and leave you with a chalky-looking mask. Fun!
Unfortunately for me, but luckily for you, I have experienced both the bad and the good sides of foundation. Which means I've now got a lifetime of tips and tricks that will revolutionize your makeup routine, so you'll never deal with another patchy, shiny, heavy mess again.
Step 1: Prep Your Skin
Don't skip this step. Let me repeat that: Do not skip this step. Makeup has the tendency to settle into creases and crevices of dry skin, so if your face isn't properly cleansed and moisturized first, you can forget having seamless foundation.
After cleansing with a gentle face wash, massage a lightweight moisturizer over your face, (along with any other skincare products you usually use in the morning), then wait a full 15 minutes for everything to sink in before proceeding to your makeup.
Try These Products for Skin Prep
Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Cleansing Water Cleanser
Kate Somerville Wrinkle Warrior Pink Plumping Mask Mask
Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Facial Moisturizer Moisturizer
Step 2: Choose Your Formula
I could write a thesis on how to difficult it is to find your perfect foundation shade (it takes a lot of trial and error...and bad photos), but for the sake of your sanity, I’ll keep it brief:
The Coverage
Most foundations fall somewhere between sheer, medium, and full coverage. If you love your freckles, choose a formula that says "sheer" or "hydrating" or "lightweight." If you want to even out your skin tone a little, look for a medium-coverage formula, which might say "semi-matte" or "satin" finish. And if you have blemishes, redness, or hyper-pigmentation that you'd prefer to cover (or, if you just love a full-face beat), go with the formula that has more coverage, which will usually say "full-coverage" or "matte."
The Shade
Now that you know your coverage and finish, you can finally match your shade. I’ve tried every trick on the internet, here—undertones, neck swatches, you name it—but the best way that I’ve found is to, well, simply put it all over your face like you would in real life, then look at it under different lighting. Natural light from the sun is the most accurate and unforgiving, so if it looks good outside, you’ve most likely found your match.
Obviously, this requires you to get a sample of foundation, first. Sephora and department stores will give you little pots of foundation to take home and sample before you buy, and most drugstores—although it's not exactly fun—will allow you to return opened makeup products with a receipt...and a very apologetic look.
Try One of These Foundation Formulas
Sheer Coverage and Dewy Finish
Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint
Medium-Full Coverage and Radiant Finish
Too Faced Born This Way Foundation
Full Coverage and Matte Finish
Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay In Place Makeup
Step 3: Apply and Blend
How you apply your foundation is up to you, but if you want the absolute best, Photoshop-level finish, most makeup artists would agree that Beautyblenders (or any good makeup sponge) are the way to go. Why? Because brush bristles tend to leave little streaks and lines on your face, and your fingers/hands are unable to buff, blend, or distribute foundation in a way that looks natural.
So once you've got your sponge (make sure to get it damp with water, first, or it doesn't work as well), dab a few drops of foundation over the main points of your face (forehead, cheeks, and chin) with your finger. Then, with stippling—not dragging or rubbing—motions, quickly tap the sponge over the dots, blending the foundation out toward your hairline and jaw to diffuse the color. Keep tapping under your chin and jaw to seamlessly blend the foundation's edges.
Try One of These Foundation Applicators
Morphe M406 Large Duo Foundation Brush Stippling Brush
Fenty Beauty Precision Makeup Sponge 100 Precision Sponge
Beautyblender Electric Violet Blending Sponge
Foundations, as a rule, aren’t designed to cover zits, so don't worry if they're still visible after you're done blending. Just dab concealer over the areas that need a bit more coverage, wait a few minutes to let it set, then blend the concealer in with your sponge.
Step 4: Set It
You don’t need to set your whole face with powder to make your foundation last. With a big fluffy brush and a loose setting powder (make sure to tap off the excess, first), gently swirl the powder over just the areas that tend to get extra shiny and oily, like your T-zone. And don't worry—if you accidentally apply too much powder and look a little chalky, spritz your skin with a face mist or fixing spray to melt the powder into your skin for a natural finish.
Try These Setting Powders and Fixing Sprays
Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder Translucent Powder
Huda Beauty Easy Bake Loose Baking & Setting Powder Baking Powder
beautyblender Online Only Re-Dew Set & Refresh Spray Refreshing Spray
And you're done! Your face might look flat and dimensionless at this point, but that's the goal of foundation: to even everything out. Now that your base is properly set, you can move on to the bronzing, contouring, and highlighting—you know, the fun parts—and watch your whole look come together.
Brooke Shunatona
Brooke Shunatona is a contributing writer for Cosmopolitan.com.